Some of the best Italian food I ever had was in Japan… seriously! Whilst that is definitely the strangest sentence I have ever written, it works with my experience of Nozawaonsen, a beautiful town and ski resort 2.5 hours from the city of Nagano, in Nagano Prefecture on the island of Honshu. A manageable drive west of Tokyo, this resort has unparalleled potential that is largely untapped by the western community.
The trip from Tokyo is easily arranged, often by coach and departure times often coincide with major flights arriving from Australia. Pro tip – wear comfy clothes you can easily layer. It’s freezing when you arrive! And definitely have a snow jacket and boots handy, because there won’t be much time for changing! The drive is beautiful, but if you’re in it for the skiing (like me) arrange it so you arrive in the evening. You can sleep on the coach, again in your accommodation and wake up ready to hit the slopes!
I have never experienced anything like the town of Nozawaonsen. The beauty is poetic – old European- style cobblestone streets make you feel like you’re wandering in Vienna, the snow falling amongst the beautiful night lights makes you feel like Alice in Wonderland and the architecture has the power to transport you. I can still feel the wonder and magic in my soul, it is a place that stays with you for a long, long time.
The Onsen: CC Image Hunter Neild
There is a practical element to the town, too. The old European style of narrow streets and many buildings allows for easy access to all the necessities – the supermarkets, restaurants and gorgeous shops. One beauty of Japan in general, is how easy it is to feed yourself without dropping hundreds of dollars on restaurants. I found this experience to be true of Nozawaonsen, too. Supermarkets are frequent, and products are identifiable – for the most part. Some aren’t, and some will provide surprise tofu! Which is fine, if you like tofu in your ice cream. But honestly, those experiences are few and far between! And incredibly entertaining, of course. You definitely don’t want to miss some of the local cuisine, though. There are amazing little shops that provide all sorts of local delicacies – and lots of international restaurants too! I really was not joking when I said I had some of the best Italian food there, in a tiny restaurant that sat about 10 people at once. Pro tip 2 – learn to book ahead, there isn’t a lot of space in buildings in this town!
There is one quintessential Japanese experience the must not be avoided. The Onsen. Now, if you have an understanding of Japanese culture you will know that this isn’t just any hot bath – this is a public hot bath. A very public, very naked hot bath. But don’t worry – it is segregated so your experience of naked flesh will at least be limited! In all seriousness though, the baths are some of the most beautiful I’ve been in. The public ones are well-maintained, but it is the fancy ones that are the most worth it. They will cost you a few yen, but the experience is unparalleled. They even have outdoor pools – a magical experience when it is snowing. Did I mention this whole town is magical?? Did I mention the skiing is magical?
The snow in Japan is unparalleled. The fluffy, powdery goodness is skier’s heaven. The Nozawa Onsen resort is no exception to this rule. Make sure you pack your walking legs, because it’s a bit of a hike from the village (especially in ski boots!) but they make it easier for you, with on-mountain ski storage and a moving carpet up the steepest part of the hill. I have to say though, the hike is definitely the best I’ve ever taken. The moment my skis touched that magical snow, my problems melted. This experience is fairly typical – the snow was good. All over the mountain, the snow was good.
The resort itself is longer than it is wide, and so the experience is of long, winding runs that cover many kinds of terrain. But it’s been set up well, there are lifts set up at intervals down the mountain, so if you wish to take a particularly good bit again, you can easily. There is also a serenity to the place, a feeling of being alone with the mountain. It is not a busy resort, and so for me it is like my own personal mecca. The feeling of winding down the slopes, like you’re the only person who matters, is a feeling I often seek. It is soul-healing, in a way nothing else ever could be. And Nozawaonsen is the cream of that crop.
Overall, I give this beautiful town 4.5 sushis out of 5 – I’ve docked half a sushi for the walk, but really I could not fault the place. It is beautiful, magical, wonderful and I’m about to go book my next flights.